Another shoo-in this year was the work of veteran costume designer Ann Roth for Ma Rainey’s Black Bottom. At 89, Roth—who won previously in 1998 for her work on regular collaborator Anthony Minghella’s The English Patient—ties the record for the oldest nominee in Oscars history. And from the film’s opening scene, which sees Viola Davis singing the blues to a rapturous crowd in 1920s Chicago sporting a swishy beaded gown and a flapper-style headscarf, it was made clear the audience was in for a roller-coaster ride of opulent Roaring Twenties fashion—bonus points too for the impeccable Jazz Age tailoring on the film’s male stars, including Chadwick Boseman and Colman Domingo. If Emma is this year’s front-runner, then Ma Rainey is nipping closely at its heels.
It came as little surprise to see the costumes for Autumn de Wilde’s Emma score a nomination. They were designed by Alexandra Byrne, a master of the period-drama genre whose work on Shekhar Kapur’s gloriously extravagant Elizabeth films saw her pick up both a nomination for the 1998 original and a win for the sequel in 2007. Byrne’s delightfully playful take on Regency-era empire dresses and bonnets dovetailed perfectly with De Wilde’s offbeat aesthetic, with the director’s background in music photography bringing a fresh, colorful eye to the typically staid aesthetic of Jane Austen adaptations. (It helped too that the star was Anya Taylor-Joy, who seemed to relish every moment promenading around gardens and mounting carriages in her kaleidoscopic lineup of coats and gowns.) Byrne would make for a very much deserving—if somewhat predictable—winner and is surely the one to beat once the ceremony rolls around on April 25.
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