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Thứ Năm, 17 tháng 6, 2021

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With much of fashion still beholden to categories of gender, size, or nationality, entering the modeling industry provided its own education on identity. “There have been moments that have challenged me to reflect on how I identify myself,” says Taira. “It’s also a good opportunity because it also allows you to look at how our culture works, our relationships with garments and fashion.” Transforming from shoot to shoot has also been illuminating. “There is this performative element to modeling; you’re often playing a character or representing the creative team’s ideas,” says Taira. “Our society still relates to those dual categories of male and female, and in a way, through my career, I can examine other possibilities.”

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Thứ Tư, 16 tháng 6, 2021

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French designer Vivien Canadas describes himself as “a researcher where the garment is a medium of exploration”. Mentored by Vanity Fair Italia’s editor-in-chief Simone Marchetti and inspired by Italian culture as well as its sophisticated approach to gastronomy, Canadas creates sculptural and distinctly elegant pieces with a bit of humor.

Here, Vogue spoke to six students to find out more about their projects, how they’ve identified with the Tod’s brand, and how it’s been applied to their practice, as well as their hopes for the future of fashion in an ever-changing world.

Thứ Hai, 14 tháng 6, 2021

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An extra pair of shoes in the background of a hallway selfie. Two plates on the artfully photographed dining room table instead of one. An unfamiliar apartment providing the mise-en-scène on Instagram Stories. These are all popular cues—“relationship breadcrumbs,” if you will—that someone has shifted their relationship status from capital-S Single to taken, but without proof positive, it’s hard to know for sure.

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As survivors testify, to make the choice to leave an abusive relationship requires courage. The process of actually leaving constitutes the most dangerous time for survivors of domestic abuse, with up to 75% of female abuse survivors who are murdered being killed after they leave their partners; unfortunately, even access to support and financial resources doesn’t always ensure safety. In light of all that, it’s long past time for us to stop asking survivors why they stayed; instead, let’s ask what we, as a society, can do to make it easier for them to feel safe leaving.

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I think for big brands it’s harder, because if they’re a huge brand they’ve been running a longer time, and it means there’s a company culture that will take a long time to undo. It can’t just be a media or marketing ploy to say, “We’re going to be sustainable now.” You have to implement positive change and good practice at every level. So I think it will take a while, but they can look at their own inventories, what they have left over, and look at who they can bring in to rework that. It could be an opportunity to work with a smaller designer. London’s got some great ones—so they can take their pick! How can they turn something that’s a liability into an asset?

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I wonder if post-COVID there’ll be a collection of yours in the future which will reflect this era? I really do believe that after the pandemic—well, not after, because I think it will be ongoing—that people will just want to enjoy themselves, whether that’s through clothing, self-expression, or just going out for a meal. I’ve something coming out at the end of March, beginning of April, which I can’t talk about yet—which has definitely been informed by the fact that I’m desperate to go out and party again!

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It came as little surprise to see the costumes for Autumn de Wilde’s Emma score a nomination. They were designed by Alexandra Byrne, a master of the period-drama genre whose work on Shekhar Kapur’s gloriously extravagant Elizabeth films saw her pick up both a nomination for the 1998 original and a win for the sequel in 2007. Byrne’s delightfully playful take on Regency-era empire dresses and bonnets dovetailed perfectly with De Wilde’s offbeat aesthetic, with the director’s background in music photography bringing a fresh, colorful eye to the typically staid aesthetic of Jane Austen adaptations. (It helped too that the star was Anya Taylor-Joy, who seemed to relish every moment promenading around gardens and mounting carriages in her kaleidoscopic lineup of coats and gowns.) Byrne would make for a very much deserving—if somewhat predictable—winner and is surely the one to beat once the ceremony rolls around on April 25.

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Another shoo-in this year was the work of veteran costume designer Ann Roth for Ma Rainey’s Black Bottom. At 89, Roth—who won previously in 1998 for her work on regular collaborator Anthony Minghella’s The English Patient—ties the record for the oldest nominee in Oscars history. And from the film’s opening scene, which sees Viola Davis singing the blues to a rapturous crowd in 1920s Chicago sporting a swishy beaded gown and a flapper-style headscarf, it was made clear the audience was in for a roller-coaster ride of opulent Roaring Twenties fashion—bonus points too for the impeccable Jazz Age tailoring on the film’s male stars, including Chadwick Boseman and Colman Domingo. If Emma is this year’s front-runner, then Ma Rainey is nipping closely at its heels.

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To create the sharp graphic cat eyes punctuated by negative space, Richardson started a few millimeters in from where the outer eye ends, drew a line out towards the temple, and then down to the undereye. The length and thickness came down to each model’s individual eye shape and what would complement their features best. “If you forget to take note of the structure of the face, [the makeup] takes over,” says Richardson. After using concealer to tweak and perfect the lines, she then added a few individual eyelashes on the outer corners to open up their gaze without too much mascara. In settling on the right shade and texture for the red lips, she used NARS Precision Lip Liner in Porquerolles with Ravishing Red and Inappropriate Red lipstick layered on top. Then, diffusing the edges for a soft-focus finish, she added a layer of loose powder. “The makeup works to support the cinematic tension,” says Richardson. “It is transformative, moody, and utterly compelling in a powerful, irresistible way.” Dramatic eyeliner or a stamp of red lipstick as a means of escape? We’ll take it—always, but especially now.

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Chủ Nhật, 13 tháng 6, 2021

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“Circulation is really a key to looking beautiful and feeling healthy,” says Lorraine Lavenita, who works cupping into her facial treatments at Manhattan’s Lavenita Acupuncture and Skincare. “Lack of circulation equals illness, acne, infection.” While the benefits are evident, facial cupping requires a practiced—and gentle—hand. “It’s really important to control the sucking, because if you apply too much suction power, you may end up with bruises,” says Harper, who recommends a rich cream or a favored oil for maximum slip and minimal friction (Lavenita reaches for jojoba, or Dr. Alkaitis Organic Nourishing Treatment Oil. “Also, you want to stay clear of the throat and neck area, as pressure in either of those veins can do a lot of damage to arteries.”

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“It’s a very efficient treatment,” says Harper, who keeps her own cups in her desk drawer for impromptu use. “When you do it, you promote new oxygen-rich blood circulation, which helps strengthen the skin and all of the connective tissues. It stimulates collagen production, and I also love that it relaxes my muscle tension.” Thought to have originated in China during the Tang Dynasty—though some medical references see cupping used around the world throughout ancient times—the practice of cupping utilizes targeted suction to encourage blood and lymph flow, easing puffiness and melting away lurking stress. “It’s kind of like a reverse massage,” says Harper. “Massage puts pressure on the tissue for tension release, but with cupping, you’re creating a really mild stretch. The suction effect pulls blood into the fascia area below the surface of the skin, creating new vessel formation which helps with tissue generation.”

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